Shaving with a double-edged razor: Taking the plunge
by PhotoBal
If you’ve got decent growth facial hair and work in a professional environment, shaving is something you can’t escape. It’s not going to change as you get older and for most of us it’s something that needs to be done every day, or second day at the least. Then there’s the poor unlucky buggers who find they have to shave twice a day just to keep up with the regrowth.
I’ve been using a Gillette Mach 3 (the original one, none of these 4, 5, 6, 7, 391 blade cartridges with super turbo vibrating action for me thanks), for as long as I can remember now. Last week however, I finally decided I’d had enough of arriving at work looking like I’d let someone’s kid take a red marker and go picasso all over my neck.
After hitting the internet I came the conclusion I had two options.
Straight razors: I wasn’t keen on this option as I’d never used anything other then a disposable cartridge razor before. Frankly the idea of using a ‘cut throat’ razor every morning when I was half asleep (I don’t shower till I get to work, after I’ve shaved at home) scared me a little.
Double edged razors: This is what I settled on. It was a similar system to the Mach 3 I was using and I figured using it would be far more familiar then a straight edge razor. (Also double-edged sounds a lot less dangerous then a ‘cut-throat’!)
The initial outlay appears to be quite expensive for a double edged razor system given that you can buy a disposable cartridge handle and some gel/foam from a supermarket for <$20.
What needs to be taken into consideration though is that shaving is something I can’t avoid. It’s not going to go away as I get older and is probably something I’m going to have to do for most of my working life. Disposable cartridges are ridiculously overpriced and are an ongoing expense.
So what’s a few $100 well spent if I can arrive at work looking like I haven’t spent all night rubbing sandpaper into my neck?
Thankfully my foray into double edged razor shaving came in well under a few hundred dollars, which was a welcome pleasant surprise. In fact given how little I spent when buying from online retailer Men’sbiz, I’m kicking myself I haven’t try this earlier.
Here are is a rundown on the basic equipment you need if you’re thinking about getting rid of the disposable cartridge system.
A razor: This I admittedly knew nothing about. After a bit of internet research I decided the best bang for buck I was going to get would probably be a German made Merkur. I wasn’t after anything fancy so in the end I tossed up between their standard razor and the heavy duty (HD) version.
I have pretty large hands so in the end I decided to go with the HD model. When it arrived I was glad I did as something I hadn’t realised was that the double edge razor handles are quite short. They’re literally half the size of your standard disposable razor handle.
I’ve read that this is to encourage the light strokes needed to use a double edged razor properly. Having said that you still need something to hold onto so if you’ve got bigger hands definitely consider the Merkur HD model as it’s thicker and weightier then the standard model. The Merkur HD model from Mensbiz was $69.95, $20 more then Merkur’s standard razor.
A brush is needed to work up a lather and then apply it to your face. You probably can use gel but I figured if I was going to this much trouble I might as well do it properly and invest in the right tools. There are basically three types of brushes:
- Badger hair is from what I gather the Rolls Royce of shaving brushes and comes in different varieties from the cheaper pure, to the midrange fine bristle and then to the luxury offering, the silvertip.
- Boar hair is a firmer bristle alternative to badger hair and is much cheaper. One downside of it though is that the bristles don’t hold as much water which makes working up a lather a tad more laborious, especially when applying it to your face.
- Synthetic brushes vary in quality and characteristics. Generally speaking though the idea is to imitate the qualities of a more expensive badger brush but with cheaper parts at a more cost effective price.
I had decided to start off with a badger pure bristle brush but Mensbiz didn’t have any in stock in the price range I was after. I definitely wasn’t comfortable dropping $100+ on one of the premium badger hair brushes and I wasn’t keen on the cheaper boar hair brushes so I decided to try a synthetic offering.
The ‘Men-U Premier Synthetic Bristle’ brush seems to be aimed at the same usability as a midrange badger brush and set me back $60 which was an attractive price considering the badger alternatives.
Shaving cream is again another itemI knew absolutely nothing about and I wasn’t sure what to get here. I figured I couldn’t go wrong with the made in England brand ‘Taylor of Old Bond Street’ (sounds like something the Queen uses on her legs), so I settled on their sandalwood cream.
I have some cologne in Sandalwood and really like the smell so I figured it’d be nice to go to work with a hint of sandalwood on my neck every morning. The tub of cream came in at $21 and from what I’ve read lasts quite a long time.
Razor blades come in many different brands and each has it’s own feeling. The main differential points when it comes to blades are sharpness and feel, with each brand varying slightly. Naturally the blade that suits one person might be horrible for another so again I was a little stuck here.
You can read all the reviews on blades in the world but at the end of the day you’re not going to know if it’s right for you until you’ve tried it.
Luckily Men’sbiz offer an attractively priced sample pack to cover first time shavers. For $17.50 you get 30 blades across a variety of brands which gives you ample choice in selecting the right blade for you.
I’ve read that ideally one blade lasts about a week so for 30 weeks worth of shaving, $17.50 is stellar value. After smooth, rash free skin this is what I’m going to love about using a double-edged razor the most.
That’s pretty much all you need to get started in double-edge razor shaving. All up I spent $170 but Men’sBiz also had a 20% discount which brought it down to $134, still qualifying me for their free shipping for orders over $120.
I placed the order Tuesday last week at about 2:30pm and the item was couriered (with a tracking number) to me by 9:30am Wednesday, at no cost – talk about service!
I’ve put off having my first shave till the weekend because on the off chance things went hopelessly wrong I didn’t want to have to rock up to work with a cut up face (try explaining that one to the boss). I’m going to have my first proper shave tonight and I’ll be sure to link to my experience here when I’ve done a write up.
If you’re thinking about making the switch go for it, I know when my gear arrived I couldn’t stop thinking about shaving – I just got ridiculously excited. I think if anything that’s just testament to how bad using a disposable cartridge system are for some of us. Thanks again to Men’sbiz for the convenience, information and ridiculously fast shipping.
Let’s face it guys, some things were better off not being re-invented.
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October 6th, 2009 at 3:07 pm Ross(Quote)
Stumbled onto your blog by accident (googling Costco in Melb) and my interest in old style shaving was aroused. I remembered my dad shaving ,when I was a young kid, using an old brass DE razor, brush & a tube of shaving cream.
I’ve become disgruntled with the ineffective electric shavers my wife buys me, because she doesn’t like me to have a beard. I baulk at the cost of modern shaving and the utter rediculous idea of shaving using more & more blades.
Also even with the multi-blade systems I never got more than 2 satisfactory shaves per cartridge. Surely shaving couldn’t be this inefficient or it wouldn’t have latest this long!
Looking around for my ‘equipment’ now but I’ll blame you for awakening a potential obsession!
October 6th, 2009 at 4:14 pm ozsoapbox(Quote)
Gday Ross, hope the Costco info you found wasn’t too accidental!
Glad to hear you’re looking at getting back into double edged shaving. Since writing my original article I’ve got the shave down to about 15 minutes including towel prep.
Since converting I haven’t looked back, honestly for the cheap price and absolute smoothness the cartridge razors don’t even compare. If you find your equipment hopefully you’ll be thanking me rather then blaming
.
October 6th, 2009 at 4:28 pm Ross(Quote)
Hi
Quick reply!
The Costco article was the 1st I looked at and found it informative as I didn’t know anything about Costco.
I’m not going back to DE shaving – I’m getting into it for the 1st time. My dad had converted away from DE shaving by the time I started shaving so I just didn’t take it up unfortunately.
You’ll be taking the blame for all the future razors, soaps, brushes etc that my wife will complain about . Although hopefully she won’t be able to complain about my stubble
October 6th, 2009 at 4:40 pm ozsoapbox(Quote)
Ah ok. In that case I can reccomend the Murkur HD as a good starting point. It’s what I’ve been using from the start and find it great once I got the initial hang of double edged shaving.
Of course you know you don’t have to succumb to acquisition disorder! I still only have my original Taylor of Old Bond shaving cream and Merkur HD. I will try a different cream when the sandalwood one runs out but razor wise the only other one I’ve been tempted to try is the HD in a slant bar.
I pretty much use the J-hook technique on my neck area and from what I’ve read the slant bar is a more natural slicing action then straight up cutting of the whiskers.
Once you’ve got the hang of it there’s seriously nothing smoother. Sometimes I just sit at work and spend half the day rubbing my fingers along my face in disbelief
.
October 6th, 2009 at 8:12 pm Ross(Quote)
I’ve been looking at various shaving forums recently and the murkur HD certainly gets a good rap. I’m not sure whether I might be more suited to just the classic or maybe a long handle rather than the heavier HD – how can you judge until you try something out? The cartridge shavers are not exactly heavyweight.
I think I may be rather prone to over indulging in new past-times. The shaving forums certainly seem to be frequented by many with acquisition disorder but they call it collecting!
J-hook technique? I’ll have to google that.
Hmmm… the chin rubbing action could be (mis)taken for actual serious thinking at work. Wouldn’t work at home but my wife stoking my chin would be a welcome benefit
October 9th, 2009 at 11:32 am paul(Quote)
hey dude , u shaved and we hear nothing from you in months. Hope u didn,t shave your head off lol. anyway, I bought some stuff at mes biz and am really enjoying it too
October 10th, 2009 at 11:20 am ozsoapbox(Quote)
Hey Paul, I’m still alive and shaving away! Just been busy with some other topics – I’ll put out a few more shaving articles over the next few weekends.
Currently I’m doing my online study for english and it’s killing me. Work + blog + 2-3 hours study a night is a nightmare, thankfully I’m 50% through the course so it shouldn’t be for much longer.
October 11th, 2009 at 11:28 am paul(Quote)
no worries. I never noticed all the other posts till it was too late. Anyway, I havent used a DE for about 30 years when i toyed with my dads as a teenager, didnt realise then his Wilkies and Gillettes would be worth something. A decent DE is not exactly cheap!
Just purchased a Muhle Pinsel Open Combe on Kinetic Blue dot com, see what u think
cheers
October 11th, 2009 at 4:02 pm ozsoapbox(Quote)
Looks good! I’m a bit weary with an open comb as I think that makes the razor slightly more aggressive?
Going by my experience with blades it seems I’ve got a sweet spot for no irritation and it falls more on the less aggresive (sharp) side of the scale.
Personally I’m in two minds about the vintage razors. I’m pretty happy with my Merkur HD even though it’s supposed to be a beginner razor. Having read some other people’s experience on various shaving forums I know there’s a real danger of waking up one day and realising you’ve got 30 different razors and a cabinet full of blades!
For this reason I’m probably going to avoid getting another razor and just stick to my HD. Although I really do like the vintage designs on some of the older models, I find the chrome finish on the HD elegant but somewhat bland.
February 14th, 2010 at 6:00 pm Moakley(Quote)
wow thanks for this great info.
Im currently buying my HD gear from the mensbiz web site
February 14th, 2010 at 11:58 pm ozsoapbox(Quote)
No worries.
I can’t recommend the HD enough. Here in Taiwan nobody seems to shave so I’m definitely glad I packed my double edged shaving gear before coming.
March 18th, 2010 at 12:51 pm MTK(Quote)
Hey guys, loving this blog about DE shaving. After doing heaps of research, I’ve decided on taking the plunge. I’ve bought the Merkur 38c HD, and it should arrive next month (alond with a badger brush, soap, and sample of blades)……mensbiz looks like a great website, but I’ve found a UK site that is heaps cheaper…and postage costs about the same as what mensbiz charges!….The website is:
http://connaughtshaving.com/
Hope this helps….
March 18th, 2010 at 3:13 pm ozsoapbox(Quote)
Thanks for that MTK.
The classical shaving scene in Taiwan is dead so at some point over the next month I’m going to have to order razors from overseas. The kick in the nuts was I’d just bought a bulk pack of Derby’s before I left but then had to leave all but 4-5 boxes at home due to luggage weight problems!
September 23rd, 2010 at 3:28 pm Tony(Quote)
A couple of months ago (ie July 2010) Big W had Comroy badger brushes for a tad under $16. They work very well and don’t shed hairs.
I have got all my razors from junk stalls for $3 to $5. I sterilise them initially in alcohol and working at them with an old tooth brush and then by boiling for 45 mins in detergent solution. This is probably excessive but who cares.
The Mens Biz sample razor blade pack is good value and provides a nice range of blades.
As for soap I find the Mennen/Palmolive <$2 shaving stick is as good as any. Shave it down into a bowl (I have read that you can microwave it into a solid puck but I haven't been too successful at this – very messy!) I have also read that you can add your own perfume/scent to 'enhance the soap' but thus far haven't been so inclined.
September 24th, 2010 at 3:45 am ozsoapbox(Quote)
My Men-U sythentic brush is still going strong after a year – no signs of shedding or anything; good as new!
I’m actually kind of a little dissapointed. If it busts I can go and try some natural badger brushes!
Razor wise I do like the idea of acquiring some junk stall ones but hunting them down might be a bit of a pain. Not that junk stalls exist here in Taiwan but even if they did I figure it’d be a longterm thing as it hugely comes down to hit and miss luck I guess.
Razors yeah, try the sample packs around be it Menzbiz or eBay – I tried a whole ton and still swear by Derby Extras.
I haven’t tried a shaving soap yet so for now I’m strictly a cream guy. I dunno if it’s just psychological but I like the sound of shaving cream over shaving soap. I know they both lather up but the idea of soap doesn’t sound very protective
.